November 17, 2025

Hakama preorders are now open 🖤

Third Iteration, Same Obsession: Building My Better-Than-Basic Trousers

I’m a big believer that good design comes from listening, testing, and then doing it all again. These trousers are now at Iteration No. 3 — the most refined version yet. I’ve sewn multiple prototypes, released a couple of early versions into the wild, and gathered a stack of feedback from real wearers. I also ran user research and small focus groups to stress-test ideas across different bodies, routines, and environments. The result is a pair of trousers that feel considered from every angle: how they move, how they wear, how they work in real life.

From V1 to V3: What Changed (and Why)

Early versions taught me a lot — what people loved, what felt fiddly, and what details were missing. Here’s what’s new in this iteration:

  • Discreet zip
    Many of you asked for easier wear in public facilities. The zip is now cleanly integrated so it supports the silhouette without stealing the show. It’s practical, yes — but it’s also a design choice that streamlines the front and keeps lines sharp.
  • Front–back lace system with guide loops
    I kept the sculptural look of the laces (they’re part of the character), but added subtle loops to keep the front and back ties neatly aligned. No drifting, no tangling — just tidy, intentional lines.
  • Removable, modular pockets
    Pockets can be tucked inside and hidden or styled externally when you want function to read as feature. They clip in/out without bulk. Again: a design choice, not just a convenience.
  • Refined proportions & seam placements
    I rebalanced ease through the hip and thigh and fine-tuned the rise for a more natural drape. Seams were shifted millimetres at a time (the fun kind of nerdy) to improve how the trouser hangs and moves.

Materials: Testing Linen, Cotton, and Denim

I prototyped and wear-tested in three textiles to see how the cut behaves:

  • Linen (mid-weight):
    Breathable, easy movement, softens beautifully. Shows the trouser’s architecture with a natural, unfussy elegance.
  • Cotton (twill/poplin):
    The most versatile: crisp enough to hold edges, soft enough for daily wear. Great for transitional weather.
  • Denim (light to mid-weight):
    More structure, bolder silhouette, and a satisfying “swish” without stiffness. Excellent for the pocket-as-feature look.

This multi-fabric testing helped me dial in interfacing choices, pocket construction, and topstitching so the design reads consistently across different fibres.

Research: What I Asked, What You Told Me

I combined surveys, fittings, and focus groups with existing customers and first-time wearers. Key insights:

  • Everyday practicality matters (commutes, long days, public facilities).
  • People want adjustability without fuss — sculptural, but not high-maintenance.
  • Pockets should be useful and intentional, not an afterthought.
  • The look should feel like a statement, but it must be comfortable enough to wear often.

Those findings are literally stitched into V3.

Fit & Movement

  • Sculptural lines, relaxed movement: the cut follows the body without clinging.
  • Adjustable elements: the lace system fine-tunes the fit; the zip simplifies on/off.
  • Balanced weight: construction is reinforced where it counts, without adding bulk.

If you’re between sizes or prefer styling flexibility, these trousers accommodate micro-adjustments beautifully.

Preorders Now Open

Preorders help me plan mindful production and reduce waste — every pair is made to order, with the same attention I brought to the prototypes and test runs.

To reserve yours, simply email me at theoakumcrafts@gmail.com following the guide below.

When placing your preorder, please include:
Preferred fabric: linen / cotton / denim
Height range & inseam preference: so I can ensure the best drape

If you’re unsure, just write “Decide with me” — I’ll get in touch personally to confirm every detail before I start cutting your pair.

Ready to reserve your pair?Preorders are open now. If you have questions about fabric, fit, or styling, drop me a message — I’m happy to help you find your perfect version.